Basic Photo Editings

Digital images captured with our digital camera can be enhanced drastically with some simple software editing. Here I would like to share some basic editing techniques that can be done with most of the photo editing software.

  • Adjust the level

This is a tool that can drastically enhance your images with a few clicks. To begin, drag the arrows from both ends until they meet the histogram. This will lighten the white or bright area and darken the shadow. The white arrow on the right is for the highlight while the black arrow on the left is for the shadow. You can also try to bring the arrow further to increase the contrast more if desired and if that bring more punch to the image. Another thing to try out from the level tool is to move the middle arrow left or right to change the mid-tone area.

  • Increase the saturation

Another easy to use tool is the saturation adjustment. Simply pull the saturation arrow to the + side or just enter a positive number in the saturation adjustment window. Typically we are adjusting the saturation for all colors but if would like to enhance the saturation for certain color only, instead of applying to the master, you can choose the color from the drop-down menu specifically. For example, you can only enhance the green lawn in the image below.

  • Sharpening

Some of our photos may not be captured perfectly due to slight out of focus or camera shake. One simple way to rescue it or enhance it is using the sharpening tool in the photo editing software to sharpen it. In photoshop, the first sharpening tool I will try is the unsharp mask. Try to various the amount and radius until you are happy with the result. You can also try the sharpen more tool to further increase the sharpness.

  • Reduce noise

Digital camera are equipped with capability to shoot in low light situation nowadays. This is accomplished by increasing the camera’s ISO setting to increase sensor’s sensitivity to light. The downside is it is inevitable to introduce noise to the final image. Unless it is captured with full frame camera where the noise level are exceptionally good nowadays, most camera will produce noticeable noise for ISO 1600 and above. The good news is the photo editing software now are pretty good at reducing the digital noise while maintaining the sharpness and contrast. The example below is the reduce noise filter in photoshop. You can vary the strength and preserve details setting to see the result. If you have not use this feature before, you will be amazed by the good results.

  • Remove sensor dust using spot removal

Digital camera especially DSLR where you can switch lens for different purposes or different situation. Over time, the sensor will gather dusts and if you are using small aperture (like F11, F16 or smaller) for better depth of field, likely you will notice some small dots on the captured images. Those small dots and spot are pretty annoying and distracting, however, removing them in photo editing software is very simple. In Lightroom as well as photoshop, there is a spot removal tool, all you need to do is click on the spot and the tool will find neighboring area to sort of clone it for you to remove the spot. When you find that there are too many of these spots in you photos, it is time to do a little bit of cleaning by using the blower to blow away those dusts. If the problem persist, send your camera to professional lab for cleaning.

  • Crop your image

Cropping is one of the easier way to improve your photos. Whether you were limited by the lens’ reach or you forget about rules of third while taking the photo in a rush, you can crop it in post-production to improve the composition. In the example below, the captured image is quite dramatic in terms of color and subject but the right side seems to be too empty. By cropping slightly to keep the left 80% and remove the plain sky above, the photo become much more interesting.

Night Photography

When the light is dim at night, there are few things you can change to try to get correct exposure:

  • Adjust to use higher ISO
    • Increase ISO means increasing the sensor’s light sensitivity so the photo can be taken under dimmer light. However, remember that higher ISO will introduce more noise to the photo and too much noise (ISO 3200 & above) will reduce the contrast and sharpness too.
  • Use larger aperture
    • With larger aperture, more light will come in so the photo can be taken with faster shutter speed. However, this will be limited by your lens’ max aperture and lens with large aperture like 2.8 and below are usually more expensive.
    • You also have to pay attention to the shadow depth of field effect of larger aperture. The effect may not be desired for landscape or night street shot for example.
  • Use slow shutter and tripod
    • With slower shutter speed, the curtain is open for longer period of time allowing more light to come in. Slow shutter speed is perfectly fine for static subjects but moving objects may create light traits or ghosting effect
    • With slow shutter speed beyond hand holding limit like 1/20, 1/10 s or below, it is necessary to mount the camera on tripod or place the camera on solid steady surface to avoid shaking.
  • Use flash
    • Flash help to illuminate you subject but flash only has limited range to illuminate the subjects/foreground but not the far background
    • Use flash to freeze the subject
    • Direct flash tends to be too harsh on the subject and creating harsh dark shallow. For DSLR with external flash, bounce it off ceiling or wall if possible to create softer light.

Depends on how dim the light and what effects you want to create, you may have to use combinations of these options.


Lets look at some examples of night photography:

In the photo below, the environment is very dim with only street light, we have to tune up the ISO sensitivity and use a relatively large aperture of F3.5

ISO : 1600     Aperture : F3.5     Shutter speed : 1/25 s

For the photo below, it is using slow shutter speed with camera mounted on tripod to capture enough light.

ISO : 200     Aperture : F6.3     Shutter speed : 1.6 s

Note that the low ISO is used for two reason. First, lower ISO equal to better image quality with less noise and better contrast. Second, with low ISO, we can force the shutter speed to be slow to capture the light trail which is a nice effect for night photography.

Another point to consider is that in order to capture the blue tone of the sky and cloud instead of complete darkness, the best time to shoot is right after sunset when there is still light from the sky.

The above examples are shot using camera’s manual mode, which mean we set both aperture and shutter speed. With digital camera, it is easy to try and error to see which setting give us correct exposure for the main subject and are best capturing the atmosphere and mode.

Most camera nowadays do have more automated mode for night photography, for example the night mode. This mode is for low light situation and night time. The idea is similar as we discussed above, the camera try to use 1) higher ISO to increase the light sensitivity, and 2) use longer shutter speed to allow enough light in to capture the background. Typically the camera also fire off a flash to illuminate your subject and foreground. The flash will freeze the subject if it is moving. Bear in mind that the background maybe blur if hand holding the camera. For best result, use the tripod.

Light in Photography

Light (& Shallow)

How important is light in photography? Well, without light, there is no photograph! Light is the number one important factor in photography. You can get good photography with normal subject with great light. To understand the difference, we can just compare the images/video of most TV series with movies. Movie scenes look much more beautiful and the most important difference is the lighting (movies spent lot of budget on creating great light, great atmosphere).

With light itself, it is not enough. Photograph is two-dimensional and to make it looks 3-dimensional, it requires another element which is shallow.

Light illuminates, shadow defines.  


Next, lets look at types of light.

Front light

  • Light illuminates the subject from the front.
  • Light source is behind photographer.


  • Most of scene are well lit so you can see everything in the picture
  • Easier to get correct exposure especially for landscape
  • Front light can be good when the light is soft in the morning or late evening


  • Less shadow -> appear flat or less three dimensional
  • Boring as most people will like to take this type of picture
  • For portrait, bright front light may cause your subject to squint and may create harsh shadow under eyes and chins

Here is one example of a photo lit by front light. Nice place, interesting subject but the photo lack dimension and depth.

Side light

  • Light illuminates the subjects from the side
  • Light source is at the side of the photographer


  • Create highlight and shadow -> 3D
  • Emphasize textures, dimension, shape, pattern and roughness


  • More challenging to get correct exposure because of the combination of highlight and shadow
  • Side light from small light source (bright sun) can create harsh shadow,
  • Not flattering for portraits
  • Could be too severe for camera to record both highlight and shadow at the same time

Below are some examples of side light effect. As you can see the side light creating side shadow, the long shadow make the photos look much more 3 dimensional.

Back light

  • Light illuminates from behind the subjects
  • Light source is in front of the photographer


  • Result could be most dramatic
  • Simplify the scene and emphasize the shape of the subject such as a silhouette
  • Add beautiful rim light to portraits to separate subject from background


  • Challenging to get the correct exposure for your subjects
    • Correct exposure of the subject but blown out background
  • Causes lens flare resulting in low contrast picture
    • Quite trendy now

Some examples of photos taken with back light. It will make the ordinary subjects more dramatic.

More tips on lighting.

To get natural lighting for portraits, you can try the followings:

  • Indoor – Window light provide large and soft light
  • Outdoor
    • Even lighting
      • Open shade
      • Bright overcast day
    • Back lighting
      • With dark background, the back lit subject has a rim of interesting bright highlight

For open shade, looks for the followings:

  • Large building wall provide even soft light & catch light
  • Subject backlit with beautiful rim light


Simple lighting for still-life

Using natural soft window light as back-lit light source and DIY card reflector

Travel Photography – Istanbul

Turkey, Ottoman Empire

This is the only transcontinental city in the world.The Bosphorus Straits splits the city into two, the west side is in Europe while the east wide is in Asia. This is a city with 2600 years of history and was once the capital city of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire and the Ottoman Empire. East and West civilization meet here, Christianity and Islam coexist here, tradition and modernity collide here.It has been known for its excellent geographical location, rich historical sites and fascinating fusion cultures since ancient times. Its mosque, museums, churches, palaces, fascinating buildings, small streets and lanes, have so many people falling in love with it and keep coming back; this is Istanbul, a beautiful city created by the fusion and conflict.


This is a photographer’s Paradise. With its rich culture, magnificent ancient buildings and the people. There is definitely no lack of interesting subjects to photograph.Here I will share some photos taken in this wonderful city.


Blue Mosque is without doubt Istanbul’s landmark building. The magnificent, unique and luxurious Mosque was built during the Ottoman Empire. The blue mosque got its name because of blue-glazed tile of the internal walls of the mosque. In fact, its real name should be the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii). It is also the center of old Istanbul. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque was built during the reign of Sultan Ahmed I, 1609-1616.

Aya Sofya is located opposite the Blue Mosque. Before 1453, it has been the Byzantine Empire’s main church, it was later occupied by the Turks and converted into a mosque. This is a famous historical building in Turkey,it was being built from the year 325 AD. The Aya Sofya building we see today has been through a series of the wars, reconstruction and expansion. It represents part of Byzantine culture and the mosaic of the cathedral mural will tell you the history and let you appreciate the beauty of Byzantine art.

Galata Bridge across the Golden Horn Bay, is the main gateway of Istanbul. Galata Bridge has gone through several reconstructions, the existing Galata Bridge is the fifth in history and was completed in 1994. The length of the Bridge is about 490 meters. The middle section of the bridge can be opened to allow ships to pass through. Since the 19th century, the bridge is often mentioned in Turkish literature and art.

Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest Bazaar in the world. It is so large that it has 26 entrances, with at least 58 indoor streets and over 4,000 shops. Built by Sultan Mohammed II from 1455 to 1461, the Grand Bazaar consists of 12 main buildings, with 22 doors, mainly selling jewellery, ceramics, spices, carpets and other items. Many of the stalls are centrally managed, such as leather and gold jewellery. You can find almost everything in Grand Bazaar including scarf, clothes, gold, carpets, blue glasses, apple tea, desserts, coffee and other kinds of Turkish local products. When shopping, be sure to keep your eyes open to watch out for all kinds of temptations and traps. This is a good place to exercise your bargaining skills.

Turkish kebab is very famous. It is a must try when visiting Turkey. Delicious food does not mean you have to go to the restaurant, those kebab and street food are also very yummy.Want to try some light food, you can also easily find grill corn, chestnuts, crispy sesame bagels on the streets.The Turkish ice-cream is also a must try. Not only it is delicious, the ice-cream seller will perform various action to amuse you to delight your day.



Travel Photography — Greece

Athens (Greek: Αθήνα) is the largest city and the capital of the Greek republic.  It has a typical subtropical Mediterranean climate. As of 2011, Athens had a population of 745,514 people and has a total land area of 412 square kilometres. It is the eighth largest city in Europe and one of the EU business center.

Athens has a recorded history of up to 3,000 years; it is known as “the cradle of Western civilization.” Athens still retains a lot of historical sites and a large number of works of art, the most famous of which is the Acropolis of Parthenon which is regarded as a symbol of Western culture.

Athens’ Acropolis, Greece’s most famous and outstanding ancient buildings, was the center of religious and politics in the ancient days. Acropolis’ size is about 4 square kilometers, located in the center of Athens Acropolis hill; it was built in 580 BC. The earliest buildings in the Acropolis were the Athenaeum and other religious buildings. Acropolis in Greek means the city of high land.


Santorini Island

Santorini is one of the most beautiful and romantic island in the world. A must visit island if you are in Greece. It is located in the southern Aegean sea, about 120 miles from the mainland.

Oia town is the second largest town in Santorini but it is the most beautiful town. It is built on the cliffs of the sea and is considered to be the world’s most beautiful place to watch the sunset. Every day thousands of tourists from all over the world gather here to enjoy the beautiful sunset. The blue-top churches built on the cliffs, the numerous nice looking white houses, as well as traditional Greek windmills make the view especially the sunset absolutely gorgeous, stunning and unforgettable. It is every photographer’s paradise.  Stay here at least few days.


Mykonos Town is the best representation of the Cycladic Architecture. It is one of the most attractive places of the Cyclades islands. The narrow streets with the bright white buildings on either side seem to have no end. May take you to a quiet church, may also bring you surprises with a unique store. Greek mythology says that the island of Mykonos is made of the broken body of a giant killed by Hercules. Its famous landmark is the iconic 16th-century windmills, which sit on a hill above the town.

There are more than 300 small churches on the Mykonos Island. Walking through the narrow residential street, you will come across a small church every few houses or shops.

One famous resident of Mykonos is actually the cure Pelican. It strolls in the streets every day, and when you eat in the open-air restaurant, its big mouth will try to share your dinner. In 1954, after a storm, a pelican decided to take this island as home, islanders named it Pedro, it has since become the mascot of the island.

The original Pedro has long passed away; the islanders miss it, and so they get a new one to let the legendary continue.


Creative Exposure Part II

Many combinations of aperture, shutter speed and ISO will give us correct exposure. For example, ISO 100, F4, 1/250, F5.6, 1/125, F8, 1/60 and ISO 200, F8, 1/125 will give us same correct exposure in terms of brightness of the photo.

Which correct exposure setting to use?

Well, choose the combination that gives us the desired effect. In order to know what the desired effect is, we need to know the effect of aperture and shutter speed setting. For ISO, use the lowest possible as lower ISO gives us better quality with less noise. However, as mentioned before, crank up the ISO when necessary to avoid blur image. Image with noise is still better than unintentional blur image. Image with noise can be improved significantly in the retouching software nowadays.

Aperture and depth of field

Depth of field is the distance that appears to be in focus in front of and behind the focus point. It is affected by aperture, lens focal length, and the distance to the subject. The table below summarizes the effect of aperture, focal length and distance to subject on the depth of field. To achieve the shallowest DOF, use the largest possible aperture, long focal length and move in closer to your subject.

Shadow Depth of field Deep depth of field
Aperture Wide (low f-number) Small (high f-number)
Focal length Long (telephoto lens) Short (wide angle lens)
Distance to subject Short Long


Here is the illustration of the effect of different apertures:

Shutter speed and motion

Fast shutter speed has the ability to freeze the motion and action to capture moment that our human eyes can’t see.

Slow shutter speed will introduce blur to the image and when use correctly can emphasize the motion and direction. However, bear in mind that you may need to mount your camera on tripod if shutter speed is too slow.

Below are example of images captured with slow shutter speed. Instead of getting a perfectly still image, now we can some some movement from the otherwise still image.


How to avoid blur image for static subjects?

  • Pay attention to shutter speed
  • Rule of thumb (without tripod)
    • Minimum shutter speed = 1/(focal length)
    • 200mm lens à min shutter speed is 1/200 s
    • 50mm lens à min shutter speed is 1/50 s
  • With VR/IS
    • Vibration reduction / image stabilization
    • Min shutter speed could be 3-4 stops slower
      • 1/200 s becomes 1/15 s


How to avoid blur image for moving subjects?

Again, pay attention to shutter speed.

For slow movement, 1/100s or 1/125s is probably sufficient

For fast movement, you need faster shutter speed of 1/250s or 1/500s

For extremely fast movement, increase the shutter speed to over 1/1000s



Panning is an interesting technique that you pan your camera along with the moving subject to get a image with relatively sharp subject with blur background

This technique takes some practice to master it. The speed you pan is especially important as you need to anticipate the speed of your moving subject.

Below are some examples of panning effect:

Creative Exposure

Creative Exposure

We already know the three basic elements of our camera that affect the exposure. In this article, we are going to discuss the effect of each element, how they are going to affect our images and the pro and cons of the different settings.


An aperture is the opening of our lens that can be adjusted to change the diameter of the opening. Given that there are many combinations of aperture and shutter speed setting that will give us correct exposure, what aperture are we going to use to give us best result? Are all apertures giving us same result besides affecting faster or slower shutter speed? The answer is definitely no. Let’s look at the effect of aperture setting:

The larger aperture like F2.8 besides giving a lot of light to go through the lens, it has a very nice effect of creating shallow depth of field that allows us to isolate the main subject and make it stand out from the background. Large apertures are typically used in portrait photography when we want to make the person very sharp against the blurry background.


On the other hand, the small aperture like F16, F22 or smaller will give us more depth of field, meaning more area or distance behind or in front of the focus point will appear in focus or sharp. This is typically desired in landscape photography where we would like to see both foreground and background clearly.


Shutter speed

Shutter speed is the time duration of opening and closing of the shutter. How does it affect the image? Well, a fast shutter speed like 1/400 of a second has the ability to freeze the moment. For wild life or animal photography, in order to achieve sharp images, the shutter speed has to be fast due to the fast moving subject. Similarly for sport photography, fast shutter speed has to be used if sharp image is the priority. On the other hand, slow shutter speed sometime is more desired as slightly blur image shows the speed, the motion of the subject better than sharp images.

Slow shutter speed sometime can be used to create artistic images to show the mood, the atmosphere. For water scene like waterfall or wave, slow shutter speed that produce silky, misty water surface are worth to try out.



Does ISO affect the quality of the images? The answer is definitely yes. That is because although high ISO allow us to take images under low light situation, there is a side effect of producing noise in the image that often are not desired. Higher ISO will produce more noise than low ISO. It is good practice to test out the high ISO image quality of your camera. However, it is better to get a slightly noisy image than a blur image so crank up the ISO if necessary. There are few photography software like lightroom or neatimage that can reduce the noise in your images while maintain certain level of details and quality.

Exposure elements

Exposure elements

In my last article, I explained what the basic of exposure is. In this article, we are going to go beyond that to understand further. We are going to go through the three elements namely Aperture, Shutter speed and ISO that affect the exposure.


What is aperture? An aperture is a hole or an opening of your lens that can be adjusted to make the opening larger or small to control the amount of light reaching the film or image sensor.


We are not going to the details of the F number or how it is calculated. However, the important thing to remember is the smaller the F number like F1, F1.4, F2, F2.8, the larger the aperture opening, the larger the number like F16, F22, F32, the smaller the aperture opening.

Shutter Speed

At the back of the camera between the lens and the film/sensor, there is a shutter curtain which opens when the photograph is taken. Shutter speed or exposure time is the effective length of time a camera’s shutter is open.

1/8000, 1/4000, 1/2000, 1/1000, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, ¼, ½, 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30

These are typical shutter speed a camera supports ranging from 1/8000 second to 30 seconds.

Below is the cross section view of a Digital Single Lens Reflex camera. You can see the opening of the lens which is the aperture and the shutter which open and close when taking photo.



The ISO in photography is the sensitivity of the film or image sensor to the light

Higher ISO numbers like ISO 1600, IO 3200 mean the sensor is more sensitive to the light. Lower ISO number like ISO 100 or ISO 200 mean the sensor is less sensitive to the light.


These three elements work together to determine the exposure and there are many combinations of these three elements that will produce “correct” exposure, meaning producing image close to 18 % gray.

For example, under certain condition and giving a fixed ISO number of say ISO 400, an aperture setting of F8 with shutter speed of 1/125 will give us correct exposure. If we change the aperture setting to say F5.6, the shutter speed that will give us correct exposure is 1/250.

ISO Aperture Shutter speed
400 F8 1/125
400 F5.6 1/250
400 F4 1/500


In another word, the amount of light doubles going from F8 to F5.6 and from F5.6 to F4. The amount of light also double from shutter speed of 1/500 to 1/250 and to 1/125.  We can complete this calculation with the following:

The amount of light reaching sensor doubles following the arrow direction:

Aperture: F22, F16, F11, F8, F5.6, F4, F2.8

Shutter speed: 1/8000, 1/4000, 1/2000, 1/1000, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, ¼, ½, 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30

ISO: 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400

Fortunately all the modern camera have auto mode feature to auto set the ISO, aperture and speed for us. If we would like more control, there are manual mode or semi manual mode like aperture priority and shutter speed priority where we set one of the value and the camera will automatically decide the other setting for us. We will talk more about that in next article.

Photography – Exposure


What is exposure?

Exposure is simply the amount of light capturing on photosensitive material like film or digital sensor.

What is correct exposure?

How much light should hit the sensor for how long?

How does the camera determine the “correct exposure? The camera has a small device inside called exposure meter or light meter that measure the amount of light hitting the sensor. It is the cumulative of light over a  duration that results in total amount of light falling on the sensor. The camera compares the result of total amount of light with a standard that is equivalent to 18 percent gray. Brighter than 18% gray, the camera will treat it as over exposed. Darker than 18% gray, the camera will treat it as under exposed.

Here is the example of 18% gray.


Will the camera meter always give us correct exposure all the time?

Well, the answer is no and that is why the decent camera will have those manual buttons for us to override the setting provided by the camera.

The camera exposure metering is based on 18% gray so it provides the setting (aperture and shutter speed combination) to produce 18% gray or the mid-tone photo. Do we want all out photos to look like 18% gray mid-tone? Definitely no. Sometime we want white, sometime we want black.

For the extreme cases below, when we take the photo for the black board or the white board. What do we get straight out from the camera? Gray, 18% gray.



Without doing anything or just using the auto mode from the camera, we are going to get under or over exposure photos under these condition. How do we change it? We can compensate for it with the exposure compensation button +/- of most camera since we know the reason behind the wrong exposure setting of the camera.

For the black board example, our camera thought it is under exposed if it give us black because it wants to give us gray and that result in over exposed photo. What we need to do is simply subtract light by compensate to the – side.

For the white board example, it is the opposite that our camera thought it is over exposed if it give us white because it wants to give us gray and that result in under exposed photo. What we need to do is simply add light by compensate to the + side.


This applies to the scenario of beach, snow, water reflection or white wall background. Our camera meter will think it is very bright and will under expose the shot, we need to add light by compensate + to make white white and not gray.

On the other hand, in the case of black wall or subject with dark background, our camera meter will think it is not bright enough and will over expose the shot, we need to subtract light by compensate – to make black black and not gray.

Where to learn photography?

There are many places/options where you can learn photography.

With digital camera and internet, photography knowledge has become much more affordable to learn and much more accessible to everyone.

Learn from photography books.

There are tons of photography books out there. Try to start with your local library, the books there may be old but you will still learn a lot from those books as the fundamental of photography does not changed much. The basic of getting proper exposure is critical regardless whether it is film or digital. You can also go visit your local book store to browse through the more up-to-date books and magazines. Subscribe to monthly magazine is also a good idea as most magazines will cover different basic fundamentals and new techniques in each issue. Online book store is another option to search for good photography books and you can read the review before buying.

Learn from the internet and YouTube

Nowadays you can learn almost anything from the internet. Just do a search in Google or YouTube and you can find many tutorials and tips and many of them are free of charge.  However, the free information available sometime is less organized and less comprehensive compared to paid version of online courses, videos and DVDs. There are also many free eBooks available online thanks to many generous contributors who are willing to share their knowledge.

Learn from local photography society and social media group

In most towns or cities, there are local photography societies that offer basic photography classes that are either free or at a low price for their members.  Try to find out what photography societies are available in your area. It will be also beneficial just to join the outing or photograph sharing session.

With the popularity of social media like Facebook, it is easier than before to find groups of people having same interests and passion as you. Create a Facebook account if you have not, you can search within Facebook to find photography groups that are active in your area. It will be fun just to learn from each other.

Attend photography workshop

Another option for you is to attend photography workshops. This might cost more but a good workshop from the pro will be worth the price. Depends on topic, the workshop could be 1 day workshop, 2 day workshop to maybe a whole week. Do your research for the workshops available in your area and pay attention to the feedback or review, especially feedback from your society members or group members.

There are also many online workshops, some are free and some charge quite a bit but typically online workshop will be less expensive.

One of the well-known names of online photography course is CreativeLive. Most of their online courses are scheduled on weekend. All you need to do is register in advance and spare a couple days of your time. Creativelive features top professional photographers from various fields including world class professional wedding photographers, commercial photographers, fashion photographers, portrait and family photographers. Other topics like photoshop editing, retouching and many other courses related to photography knowledge, post-production, photography business are also available. Check out their website for coming courses and you can watch it live free. Yes, all the courses are free to watch when they broadcast it live. If you like the course, you can opt to purchase the DVDs at a reasonable price.

Where to learn photography? There are certainly many other places and options you can start learning photography including going to college if you are serious about making photography as your career.